“The ‘zémidjan,’ if you are visiting Togo or Benin, one of the transportation means is motorcycle taxi called zémidjan. And the zémidjan, theoretically and officially, is supposed to carry one person and your luggage, the passenger and your luggage. But you’ll come across zémidjan loaded with the entire family members, of husband wife [and] three kids, plus the driver. It’s not safe but they do it.”